These ranking system is similar to the IFSC-World Cup, but the strength of the field is taken into account by a factor between 1 (best possible field) and 0 - called field-factor.
The WR is calculated (since 1999) as the sum of all results of the last 12 month.
There was a minor change of the WR system starting in the
The reason for a field factor is clear: the weight of a competition is chosen by the competitors who come to the competition and not by a commission on a green table a year before.
The WR itself is used to get the factor (on the date one day before the competition). Adding the points (using the a new table, later called WR-table, which is the regular IFSC-table plus 15 points for every place, e.g. 115 for the first) of every competitor who got a place in the competition leads to a sum.
In case of ties we add the points of the different places and divide them by the number of ties, e.g. two 2. places: (80+15 + 65+15) / 2 = 87.5 for both.
Dividing this sum by the sum of the points of all places we got a factor between 0 and 1.
So a masters-competition with only 10 invited climbers will have a field factor less than a regular worldcup.
So all competitors who are under the first 30 of the actual WR count for the field-factor not only the ones who gets points for this competition (the first 30).
The field-factor is rounded to two digits behind the point
before the calculation of the individual points for the climbers.
2. mode of the WR
The WR is calculated since 1999 as the sum of all (counting) competitions of the last 12 month (exactly 1 year back).
3. places and points
To assign points to the competitors we use the IFSC-table multiplying it with the field factor.
All points are rounded to two digits behind the point.
4. the start of the WR
Because the WR itself is used for the calculation of the field-factor their have to be a kind of provisional ranking before the WR can be started:
The provisional ranking (for the OnSight cathegory) was established using a fixed factor of 0.60 and the first 5 IFSC Competitions in 1991 (4 World Cups and the World Championship).
The speed and boulder WR's used a similar methode.
5. example: field-factor-calculation for Arco '93
The second column 'rank' is the place of the competitor in the WR before this competition (after Black Sea '93).
The next column 'ex.' shows the number of ex aquos in the WR on this place.
This leads with the WR-table to the points in the next column. All this points are added and the sum is divided by 1268, the maximum number of points (sum of the WR-table).
The last colum shows the points a competitor gets for
this competition. The field-factor read as a percentage is the same as
the points for the first place.
The column portion is the quotient of the points and the sum of all points (1268).