# IFSC Worldranking (WR)

## Introduction

These ranking system is similar to the IFSC-World Cup, but the strength of the field is taken into account by a factor between 1 (best possible field) and 0 - called field-factor.

The WR is calculated (since 1999) as the sum of all results of the last 12 month.

There was a minor change of the WR system starting in the year 1999.
All changes are documented here in italics:
Before 1999 the WR was sum of the best 7 results out of the last 10 events.

## 1. field-factor

The reason for a field factor is clear: the weight of a competition is chosen by the competitors who come to the competition and not by a commission on a green table a year before.

The WR itself is used to get the factor (on the date one day before the competition). Adding the points (using the a new table, later called WR-table, which is the regular IFSC-table plus 15 points for every place, e.g. 115 for the first) of every competitor who got a place in the competition leads to a sum.

In case of ties we add the points of the different places and divide them by the number of ties, e.g. two 2. places: (80+15 + 65+15) / 2 = 87.5 for both.

Dividing this sum by the sum of the points of all places we got a factor between 0 and 1.

So a masters-competition with only 10 invited climbers will have a field factor less than a regular worldcup.

So all competitors who are under the first 30 of the actual WR count for the field-factor not only the ones who gets points for this competition (the first 30).

The field-factor is rounded to two digits behind the point before the calculation of the individual points for the climbers.

## 2. mode of the WR

The WR is calculated since 1999 as the sum of all (counting) competitions of the last 12 month (exactly 1 year back).

Before 1999
The last 10 competitions are used, because it is nearly one year but it doesn't have the problems of a ranking which substitutes one competition by the 'same one' this year nor the ranking differs on the days between the competitions as it will do if it uses the competitions of exact 1 year (e.g. the ranking of 15.01.93 will consist of all competitions between 16.01.92 and 15.01.93).
The best 7 results of a climber are added for the WR.
To get a larger list and to give one the opportunity to show up in the ranking with one good placement their will be no minimum number of competitions to be ranked.

## 3. places and points

To assign points to the competitors we use the IFSC-table multiplying it with the field factor.

All points are rounded to two digits behind the point.

Before 1999
Because a 12. place in a masters with only 15 competitors is not comparable with a 12. place in a world-cup with 60 competitors not all climbers (if we had less then 30) can get points.
A competitor has to leave at least the half field behind him to get points. (In the above mentioned case of a competition with only 15 participants points will be assigned only to the first 7).

## 4. the start of the WR

Because the WR itself is used for the calculation of the field-factor their have to be a kind of provisional ranking before the WR can be started:

The provisional ranking (for the OnSight cathegory) was established using a fixed factor of 0.60 and the first 5 IFSC Competitions in 1991 (4 World Cups and the World Championship).

The speed and boulder WR's used a similar methode.

## 5. example: field-factor-calculation for Arco '93

 rank name nation rank/ex. points points 1. CHEVIEUX Elie SUI 7. / 1 58.00 66.00 2. LOMBARD François FRA 12. / 1 43.00 52.80 3. LEGRAND François FRA 1. / 1 115.00 42.90 4. HIRAYAMA Yuji JPN 3. / 1 80.00 36.30 5. PETIT François FRA 2. / 1 95.00 33.66 6. SARTORI Nicola ITA 10. / 1 49.00 31.02 7. MAZUER Fabien FRA 11. / 1 46.00 28.38 8. FÜRST Stefan AUT 24. / 1 22.00 0.00(*) 9. AROCENA Patxi ESP 14. / 1 39.00 0.00 10. SCASSA Severino ITA 6. / 1 62.00 0.00 11. GIUPPONI Luca ITA 28. / 1 18.00 0.00 12. ZARDINI Luca ITA 4. / 1 70.00 0.00 13. ALBRAND Vincent FRA 16. / 1 35.00 0.00 14. COROLLER Frédéric FRA 13. / 1 41.00 0.00 15. SAMOILIN Pavel RUS 5. / 1 66.00 0.00 839.00

(*) As the above competition was before 1999, only 50% of the field get points.
Nowerdays all competitors would get points.

The second column 'rank' is the place of the competitor in the WR before this competition (after Black Sea '93).

The next column 'ex.' shows the number of ex aquos in the WR on this place.

This leads with the WR-table to the points in the next column. All this points are added and the sum is divided by 1268, the maximum number of points (sum of the WR-table).

The last colum shows the points a competitor gets for this competition. The field-factor read as a percentage is the same as the points for the first place.

## Appendix: WR-table

The column portion is the quotient of the points and the sum of all points (1268).

rank points portion % % sum til that place
1. 115 9.1% 9.1%
2. 95 7.5% 16.6%
3. 80 6.3% 22.9%
4. 70 5.5% 28.4%
5. 66 5.2% 33.6%
6. 62 4.9% 38.5%
7. 58 4.6% 43.1%
8. 55 4.3% 47.4%
9. 52 4.1% 51.5%
10. 49 3.9% 55.4%
11. 46 3.6% 59.0%
12. 43 3.4% 62.4%
13. 41 3.2% 65.6%
14. 39 3.1% 68.7%
15. 37 2.9% 71.6%
16. 35 2.8% 74.4%
17. 33 2.6% 77.0%
18. 31 2.4% 79.4%
19. 29 2.3% 81.7%
20. 27 2.1% 83.8%
21. 25 2.0% 85.8%
22. 24 1.9% 87.7%
23. 23 1.8% 89.5%
24. 22 1.7% 91.2%
25. 21 1.7% 92.9%
26. 20 1.6% 94.5%
27. 19 1.5% 96.0%
28. 18 1.4% 97.4%
29. 17 1.3% 98.7%
30. 16 1.3% 100.0%
sum 1268